Morbier
The most visually striking thing about this cheese is the presence of a thin dark grey line though the centre of its pale ivory coloured paste.
This grey line is actually a layer of wood ash. Traditionally, the cheese was made from the curd from two milkings. The ash was sprinkled over the morning curd to protect it during the day, and then the evening curd was poured on top.
This is one of our favourite cheeses. The paste is soft and flexible with a sweet, milky, farm yard smell. Though typically Alpine, in many respects, Morbier captures the best of this. Rich and creamy, buttermilky and nutty with overtones of fresh cut hay and the farm yard. Very satisfying, to nibble and savour with a glass of wine… DELICIOUS!
The original purchase for this review came from Selfridges. However, more recently, a piece has be bought from Tesco Remarkably, the Tesco sample was better than one purchased in France.
Purchased from Selfridges, London.
Reviewed by Nick & Olympia, 2010
(5/5)
Update
To our delight, we recently discovered that the French also produce an aged version of Morbier.
Thinner than the usual variety (presumably due to shrinkage), but a dark yellow colour, becoming almost brown near the edges. It looks like it’s been kicking around for while, but… Oh my word! None of those subtle features of its younger sister, this is full force and in your face, intense and pungent. It may be too strong for some, but if you like Morbier and strong cheese, it is definitely worth seeking out.